Goodfellows Travels
Honeymooning in Central & South America
Sunday, November 12, 2006
Thursday 12th to Saturday 14th October 2006: PERU: Puno, Islas De Uros & Taquile Island
Puno is a city that lies in the south eastern region of Peru, along the shores of Lake Titikaka. Puno is a major tourist destination for those wishing to visit the many Inca ruins of Peru and legend has it that Manco Capac (the first Inca) rose out of the the lake at Puno to found the Inca Empire.
On Friday we took a full day tour of the Uros Islands and the nearby island of Taquile. Our first stop was the Uros Islands where we met the Uros (pre-Inca) tribespeople, who originally built these islands to escape the dominance of the Incas on the mainland. The islands are made `Totora´reeds which grow in the lake. The dense root of the reeds support the island and are anchored with ropes attached to sticks that are then driven into the bottom of the lake, which at this point is approximately 20 meters. The reeds rot away quickly so new reeds are added to the top of the island every fifteen days. Each island lasts for about 30 years. The island we visited houses 7 families who work together as a community to provide food, housing, re-building etc for all residents. Each `job´is allocated to each family by the Chief of the island and works on a rota system. Food is cooked with fires made on piles of rock and toilets are provided in tiny `outhouse´ islands near the main islands. There are between 30 and 50 `floating´islands at any one time depending on how the islands are split or renewed.
The Uros Islands are Puno´s major tourist attraction and our entire visit to the islands was completely geared for the tourist (the tribespeople sang nursery rhymes in English, French and Japanese and you were constantly hassled by the kids to buy souvenirs!) which did spoil the experience a little. However, the annoyance was worth tolerating as it was very interesting observing and learning about these quite remarkable islands and the life of the Uro people.
At Taquile Island we stopped for lunch and a afternoon stroll before heading back through the Uros Islands (getting trapped in the reeds along the way!) to Puno.
Welcome to Isla Chullo
The Chief of Isla Chullo with the `Totoro´reed
Demonstrating how the islands are built
Tuesday 10th to Thursday 12th October 2006: BOLIVIA: La Paz & Copacabana
We arrived in La Paz (the highest capital city in the world) at 7am on the 10th after a twelve hour bus ride from Uyuni. We spent one night in this city and did not visit the few attractions there are to see as we were so exhausted from our Salt Flats tour we did no more than go out to eat and use the internet!
Early wednesday morning we left La Paz, taking the five hour bus ride to the Copacabana, a small town which lies on the shores of Lake Titikaka, the worlds highest navigable lake at 3,810 meters. We spent one night in Copacabana, most of it sleeping (the high altitude had left us exhausted!) leaving the next day for Puno, a city on the Peruvian shores of Lake Titikaka.

The harbour at Copacabana

Sunday, October 29, 2006
Monday 9th October 2006: BOLIVIAN SALT FLATS TOUR: Salvador Dali Desert
After lunch we started our return journey to Uyuni - a 600km drive across the desert. Along the way we saw some more strange rock formations known as the `Salvador Dali Desert´ and others that were shaped like animals!
At 6pm we arrived back in Uyuni. After three days in a jeep we were dusty and exhausted, but extremely happy to have experienced the most amazing sights and wonders of the Salar De Uyuni.


A rock window
Monday 9th October 2006: BOLIVIAN SALT FALTS TOUR: Laguna Colorada & Salvador Dali Desert
From the Laguna Verde we drove to the border with Chile to drop off the couple who were continuing their travels into Chile. From the border we drove back to Laguna Colorada (but this time from the other side which from this angle looked very differnt) and here were enjoyed our last lunch together with the group, accompanied by many Llamas!


Lunch by Laguna Colorada . . .
. . . with Llamas for company!

Monday 9th October 2006: BOLIVIAN SALT FLATS TOUR: Thermal Baths & Laguna Verde
After the geysers we headed to the neary thermal baths were we were able to have hot bath whilst breafast was prepared. Out of our group of six, Celina was the only one to enjoy the hot baths, the other were too cold to undress! Even though it was freezing outside, after twenty minutes of soaking in the therapeutic waters Celina was well thawed after experiencing the coldest night ever!
After breakfast we headed to the Laguna Verde (Green Lake) which is only a few kilometers inside the Bolivia (on the Chile border) at 4,350 meters. The colour of the salt lake is caused by sediments containing copper minerals and the colour is exaggerated with strong winds.
Crowding at the thermal baths
Enjoying the first bath in 7 months!
The now peaceful thermal baths and its beautiful backdrop

Laguna Verde
Monday 9th October 2006: BOLIVIAN SALT FLATS TOUR: Sol De Manaña Geysers
This day we awoke at 4.30am in order to catch sunrise at the nearby "morning sun" geysers which are at the top of a volcanic crater 5,000 meters above sea level! The geysers were quite amazing but it stank of sulphur and in our half asleep state we manged to get splashed with the bubbling mud whilst taking the last picture!





Sunday 8th October 2006: BOLIVIAN SALT FLATS TOUR: Laguna Colorada
Laguna Colorada (4,600 meters above sea level) covers an area of 60 km2. The rich red colouration is caused by the algae and plankton which thrive in the lake, the shoreline is edged with brilliant white deposits of sodium, magnesium, borax and gypsum and the lagoon is many flamingos, three species of which breed here. The lake changes colour throughout the day as the sun activates the plankton and algae causing the lagoon to glow brilliant red.
This lagoon was the last stop of the day and it was here that we spent in the night in very modest accommodation, i.e. dormitories and no showers, hot water or heating! Whilst we were waiting for dinner to be made we walked to the lookout to take these pictures. The relatively short walk to the lookout took one hour (there and back) and by the time we arrived back at the hostel we were feeling very sick and exhausted due to the incredible altitude.
The night spent by the lagoon was the coldest we have ever experienced! Even with all our clothes on, in sleeping bags with blankets, it was still cold! During winter, Laguna Colorada is the coldest place on earth after Siberia!




Sunset at Laguna Colorada
Sunday 8th October 2006: BOLIVIAN SALT FLATS TOUR: Arbol De Piedra
We stopped here in the middle of the Siloli Desert (part of the National Reserve Eduardo Abaroa) to see this strange rock formation known as the `Stone Tree´ which was formed during the uprising of the Andes. There were also other strange rock formations but none of the others where as impressive or looked like a tree!


Other rock formations in the Siloli Desert